Sunny intervals with showers, some heavy

An early (for us) start today as we didn't want to be making the sharp left turn out of the Caldon  when it was busy.  We needn't have worried - we saw only one boat moving in the first 2 hours and when we finally reached the junction it was deserted.


From then on, lady luck smiled on us and at each of the 5 locks leading down out of Stoke another boat was waiting to come up, so progress was smooth.  Wish we could have said the same about the weather.  If "getting an anorak on and off at speed" were an Olympic sport, we'd both be gold medallists.


I'm not sorry to have left Stoke behind - yes, there's a lot of "regeneration" going on - a lot of it desirable residences for people who no doubt mainly work in service industries because, as the remaining dereliction shows, the manufacturing industries that made the city are all but gone. But the general air (to me at least) is one of despondency.

It's not all bad though -

The statue is of James Brindley (1716-1772), one of the great engineers of Britain's canals.



After more dodging of showers, some pretty heavy, we finally decided to moor early at a pleasant spot just north of Barlaston.  The railway is close, but we can barely hear it, and Wimbledon is on the telly.


11 miles, 10 locks, 2 lift bridges

Wildlife:  mostly ducks, 1 moorhen which had cleverly incorporated a plastic carrier bag into its nest

PS We now have 7 tomatoes

Pootling on the Caldon

After a late(ish) night watching Rafa Nadal's early departure from Wimbledon, our own departure this morning was fairly late.

Originally we'd thought of going almost to the end of the Froghall branch of the Caldon, but the weather was looking grim again and we decided to leave a thorough exploration of this beautiful canal for another trip.  So, our day comprised going up to Hazelhurst winding hole, turning and stopping on the way back for water and shopping at Endon, and mooring up in exactly the same spot as last night.  (Though the TV signal wasn't as good the other way round - until Brian moved the aerial).

We headed up the five locks at Stockton Brook behind 3 other boats, but only one came down, so it was hard work for the lock-winder (me) and I resolved to take the tiller on the way down.  I still can't understand why the paddle gear is so stiff on some locks but BW's only solution seems to be "slap on more grease".  Not much good for the paddles; no good at all for my clothes.

Red Riding Hood is not amused

 

We were now at the summit of the canal and the winds rose to somewhere between gale and hurricane force.  As usual, the wind proved totally useless at assisting our winding, coming at us in all directions except the way we wanted to turn.  The manouevre was eventually accomplished with much use of the bowthruster and we headed back first to the water point and then to the moorings for a lunch and shopping stop. 

With the weather sunnier but still windy, we retraced our steps and I did the "easy" bit coming down the locks.

Back at "base", we had a brief spell of sunshine but it's now a bit gloomy.  We also  found out from someone we met at the locks that in any case our planned trip to Froghall would have been doomed as the River Churnet, with which the canal shares its course for part of its length, was in flood following yesterday's rain.

Still, it does seem we have been let off very lightly compared to some, for which we are grateful.

6 1/2 miles, 10 locks (5 x 2), 2 lift bridges (1 x 2)


Wildlife:  strangely, not much fauna, but here are some nice flora, courtesy of Brian (cue groans from Nick & Chris: oh no, not flowers again)

Light at the end of the tunnel

Inevitable really, that after such a glorious evening, the morning would start grey and showery.  Still very warm though, which made the wearing of waterproofs particularly uncomfortable.  After six more locks we finally reached the highlight (in the circumstances that should probably be low light) of the day - Harecastle Tunnel.


At 1 3/4 miles long, Harecastle is one of the longest tunnels on the system, and it's one-way working only.  No more than 8  boats are allowed through at a time, alternating between southbound and northbound passages.  It takes around 40 minutes to get through.

We didn't really want to be first in line (there's some sense of security in following another boat) but we were.  The tunnel keeper told us we'd have about an hour's wait, so we'd obviously just missed the last passage.  Still, it gave us time for coffee and a bit of photography.

The arch on the right is the entrance to the "old" Harecastle Tunnel, completed by James Brindley in 1777 after 11 years' work.  Because it had no towpath and boats had to be "legged" through, it eventually became a bit of a bottleneck, so Thomas Telford was commissioned to build a new tunnel, which was completed in 1827 after 3 years' work.  It's towpath has since been removed.  The whole concept of these constructions is quite breathtaking, considering the lack of modern building aids and methods.

Eventually, the tunnel keeper came to take our details and give us our safety briefing. Any animals on board? he asked.  Brian mentioned that we'd collected 5 snails since last night, but was told that if they didn't have names, they didn't count.  However, rather than transport the poor creatures 1 3/4 miles out of their comfort zone, we gently released them into the wild on the towpath,

Soon the sole northbound boat emerged from the tunnel and it was our turn.  Thankfully the tunnel is completely straight, but the profile of the roof changes throughout and some sections are really low.  On and on we went, hoping to see that elusive light at the end... but there isn't one, becouse the south portal has doors which are kept shut until just before you conme out, so that huge extractor fans can do their job of taking out the diesel fumes.  After 35 minutes, the sound of the fans became louder and louder, and a tiny pinprick of light appeared between the doors.  Finally the doors opened and we were out into daylight again.  The south end tunnel keeper had our details, including the boat name, and had prepared some French phrases to greet us with!

We motored on for a short while until we reached Westport Lake, where we moored up for lunch just as a loud rumble of thunder resounded around the very black and rainy sky.  We now realise that this must have been the tail end of the storm that assailed the West Midlands earlier.

By 3.30 we were turning into the Caldon Canal, where we encountered a staircase lock and an electrically operated lift-bridge in fairly quick succession.  The late afternoon /evening sun was beautiful and we wanted to take advantage of this to reach the more rural part of the Caldon for our night's mooring.  But not before we'd witnessed some sad reminders of the industry that this part of the world was built on

Two bottle kilns in a field - how long before they get swallowed up in yet another "canalside" housing development?

But it's 9.20 pm and still a lovely evening, so mustn't grumble.

13 miles, 10 locks, 1 tunnel, 2 lift bridges


Wildlife:  today we have been mainly seeing snails

A Sunny Day on Heartbreak Hill

We were forecast rain all day but I'm so glad to say THEY WERE WRONG!!

The prospect of 20 odd locks is daunting enough without the added hassle of wet-weather clobber, but I'm delighted to say I have been clad in just T-shirt & cotton trousers with an Aussie-type hat to keep the blazing sun off my neck.  Woo-hoo!!!

Stopped for water before the bottom lock at Wheelock, where we encountered firstly a boat which had been signwritten/decorated by the guy who did Bonjour's - Will Jones, and secondly some firefighters receiving training in water safety and rescue techniques.  One of them was so drop-dead gorgeous that I forgot to keep an eye on the hose and flooded the bow!

Next "Heartbreak Hill" or, less dramatically, the "Cheshire Locks".  Most of these are duplicated, ie. two single locks side by side, and you use whichever one is in your favour.  For a while, that was neither, however we soon started meeting other boats, which made things easier.  We also alternated lock-winding and steering, two locks at a time, which made things much easier. 

After the first 10 locks we stopped for lunch at Hassall Green, which on the good side has a canal shop, a lockside bistro, and a church painted pink;  but on the bad side is mighty close to the M6, so lunch was accompanied by the drone of incessant traffic. 

After an hour's break we set off again, the sun getting even hotter.  We were now being followed by three strapping lads on a hire-boat, who eventually took the opportunity of the duplicated locks to catch up with us.  Just Church Lawton locks to go and we knew there was a great mooring round the corner, so we took the opportunity to let them go ahead (not to mention emptying the locks for us).

We've not made it quite as far as we intended but the heat got the better of us and this is really a fabulous spot, with views of Church Lawton Hall nearby, and Mow Cop in the distance.

7 1/2 miles, 20 locks

Wildlife seen:  swifts, mainly - one of which was actually nesting in a lock gate

Off the Shelf

Sunday 24 June

Midsummer Day, and what am I wearing? Walking trousers - tick; fleece - tick; gloves - tick; anorak - tick; scandinavian goat-herder's hat (as Brian calls it) with ear flaps - tick.  I wouldn't let him take a photo though.  The sun is sunny, but the wind is icy.  Just two locks to go through before reaching our objective: Nantwich and a launderette.

Brian holds the boat on a mooring some way short of the main visitor moorings while I walk ahead to check if there is space further up.  I phone him - yes, just one - be quick.  It takes 15 interminable minutes ( must be a faster walker than I thought!) before he arrives and says : "That's not long enough".  Much chastened, I head further along the towpath and under the bridge, to find a "picnic mooring" (actually 24 hrs) and there we stop, the stern about 12 ins from the bank - yes, we're on the Shroppie shelf again.  The boat bangs horrendously against the ledge every time we move up and down or another boat goes past, and I'm not sure we can stand it for the rest of the day and night, but Brian rigs up an arrangement with a spare pipe fender that absorbs a good 80% of the impact.

Then, we haul our two huge bags of assorted washing up to Nantwich Marina, where the launderette goes by the name of "The Wash Basin".  It is 1.15 and they close at 3, so it will be a close call to get two loads washed and dried.  However the lady in charge is very helpful, providing plenty of change and explaining the workings (I haven't used a launderette since I was a student.)  We while away some of the time with lunch in the marina cafe - Staffordshire oatcakes with cheese & bacon.

Washing done, we catch up on yesterday's paper and the number of passing boats becomes less and less as everyone gets moored up ready for The Match.

Needing some exercise, we decide to walk into Nantwich to get a Chinese takeaway.  It's a lovely evening, and we enjoy the wooden sculptures along the towpath.

(It's a dog, in case you were wondering)

4 miles, 2 locks


Wildlife seen: see above pictures


Monday 25 June

Glorious sunshine.  We first head into Nantwich again to get supplies.  It's a lovely little town - many old and beautiful buildings, including typical Cheshire black & white.  We also indulge in a coffee at a great little cafe called Ginger & Pickles.

Soon we are afloat again, heading first for Barbridge Junction and in particular its water point - notorious for being one of the most awkwardly located and having the slowest tap on the canal system.  Someone is already on it and we wait ages before his tank is filled and we can take the space.  Then just to help matters, some BW contractors start mowing and strimming the grass around us, so the boat gets covered in cuttings.

Eventually our watering up is done and we make a sharp right into the Middlewich Branch of the Shroppie.  We really feel on "home ground" here as this was a journey we made in one direction or another many times when our share boat was based in Cheshire.  As it was then always "on the way" to or back from somewhere, I don't think we'd appreciated how beautiful it was.  Today, it was just perfect.  We stopped at one of our familiar mooring spots (6 inches out from the bank - the Shelf is still with us), had a barbecue, and enjoyed the sunshine and the view over the Weaver valley to Church Minshull late into the evening.

8 miles, 2 locks

Wildlife seen:  some exceedingly agressive swans who snatched the bread from my hand and hissed when told there was no more.


Tuesday 26 June

Off in  sunshine again - first objective Middlewich, for (a) Tesco and (b) fish & chips from our third favourite chippy.  (The first is in Queenstown, NZ and the second The Magpie in Whitby).  We moored up in Middlewich and trekked down the road to the Tesco Metro we know  (but can't quite love).  Shopping done, we see a side street and wonder if it makes a quicker route back to the canal.  We've not gone 300 yards when we realise that (a) it does and (b) it contains a much larger Tesco, where we could have bought what we really wanted (such as grapefruit juice instead of settling for ruby breakfast).  Curses.  At this point it also decides to rain.

I put the shopping away while Brian goes to fetch the fish & chips, which takes some time as there is a long queue.  They are excellent and as always in humungous portions (we always forget this).  We decide to set off again before the rain gets worse, but should really have allowed more digestion time and I find the remaining 6 locks of the day very hard work.

The first of these we always knew as "Maureen's Lock" after Maureen Shaw, who lived in Wardle Lock Cottage beside the lock and was a boating legend.  Born on a narrowboat and spending almost her whole life with working boat people, she would sit outside her cottage and offer advice and wisdom to passing boaters.  Occasionally the advice could be quite sharp and it was not unknown for her to take the tiller herself in exasperation!  Praise from Maureen for your boat handling skills was praise indeed.  She died earlier this year and it was strange to see the cottage without her.

By the time we got through Maureen's and King's Lock, the rain was driving into us and we began to regret leaving our mooring.  We decided against going for our original target of Wheelock and instead moored at a spot most familiar to us as the one where we used to moor the share boat on a Friday night before going into the boatyard on Saturday morning.  Only this time, we don't have to clean the boat!

Also, as we are now on the Trent & Mersey Canal, we have at last waved goodbye to that infernal shelf.

About 10 minutes after we tied up, the sun came out again, but we are threatened with more rain tomorrow, when we have to tackle "Heartbreak Hill".

9 miles, 7 locks


Wildlife seen:  It was Middlewich. 'Nuff said.

The sun has got his hat on (but needs his windcheater)

The plan today was to get to Audlem ("the most southerly village in the north" says the guide) before lunch and stay for the rest of the day and night, to have some downtime in a place we've visited a few times and always liked.

So, setting off at 8.30, we were soon on our way down the first 11 of the 15 Audlem locks (total descent 93 ft). Progress was quite smooth as there were plenty of boats coming the other way, and we reached the first, totally empty, stretch of visitor moorings.  However, Miss Picky decided she didn't want to stay there and that the stretch below the next two locks would be nicer, so Brian battled on with gritted teeth through the gale-force winds until we found almost the last spot available (but it did have a much nicer outlook).

After a quick coffee, and the discovery that again there was no signal to our wi-fi dongle, we set off on foot to find some lunch and do some shopping. 

Lunch was easy - the sun was shining, so it had to be outside the Shroppie Fly

Standing on the wharf and converted from a former warehouse, with a bar shaped like the bow of a narrowboat, the Fly is the epitome of "boaty".  Strange, then, that the crane in front actually came from the long-gone Audlem railway station. (Immortalised in Flanders & Swann's The Slow Train).

Lunch was so good, and filling, that we abandoned plans for eating out in another of Audlem's hostelries tonight, and went in search of ingredients for on-board eating.  First shock was that the butchers had closed.  Then we couldn't find any fresh vegetables.  Unlike Richard & Sandra, we have only tomatoes to call our own, and they are sadly not up to the mark yet - only three of them, the largest less than an inch across and defiantly green.

So we picked up a few things from the Co-op and resigned ourselves to store-cupboard creativity.  Out third shock of the day was arriving back at the boat, which now had a strong list to port.  We had become victims of the "Shroppie shelf", the water level having dropped thanks to quite high use of the lock below.  Swift action was required, and we decided that this would take the form of an exit from Audlem.  Down the last two locks, and an hour later we were at the interestingly-named Coole Pilate moorings - out in the country, and thoughtfully provided with picnic tables and barbecues.  If only the weather was good enough to use them.

4 1/2 miles, 15 locks


Wildlife seen: 2 sparrowhawks performing an amazing aerobatic display; 1 squirrel which performed a flying leap over the lock outside the Shroppie Fly, hotly pursued by a Jack Russell

PS. Amazingly, in the middle of nowhere, we do have a signal, so I will add the photos to previous posts

Normal service now resumed ( we hope)

Last night we had no signal either for our phones or broadband, and tonight the signal is quite weak, so just to catch up...

Thursday 21 June

Heavy rain was forecast and heavy rain happened.  We went back into Brewood to get the ingredients for Brian's famous chicken dish among other things.  Found fruit, veg, fresh baked bread and cold meats at Coopers and the chicken at Maiden's, an excellent butcher.  The village is really well supplied with shops - a boaters' heaven.

We then set off, hoping to get to  a countryside mooring we stopped at last time we were round these parts, but it was likely it would take us until 7 pm, and the weather stayed pretty wet, though it was surprisingly warm.

We took on water at Wheaton Aston and then regretted having filled our diesel tank on Monday - the price at Turners garage was 14p a litre cheaper!

We had a very late lunch at High Onn bridge, then pressed on as far as Norbury Junction, where spotting a mooring space and fed up with the rain, we stopped at just gone 5.

Still, we saw another kingfisher!

10 1/2 miles, 1 lock, 1 tunnel (all of 81 yards)

Wildlife seen: the usual suspects + another kingfisher (2 in one trip - a record!)


Friday 22 June

Set off at 8.45 this morning in weather which was more showery, but definitely colder and windier.

The narrow cuttings of the Shropshire Union can be magical with their lush greenery, but at the same time mysterious and almost threatening, especially on gloomy days like this.  When we emerged onto Shebdon Embankment, the wind provided all the excitement as we struggled sometimes to keep the boat going in the right direction.  Still, we had a great view of The Wrekin, which meant it was going to rain (if you can't see it, it's already raining).

We were just thinking about lunch when we came to a halt in Woodseaves Cutting, where a willow tree was blocking the canal completely.  Three guys from boats on the other side  were already setting about it with a saw, and Brian and the man from the boat behind us also weighed in to help. (Someone had already rung BW, but apparently they couldn't get here until they'd finished another job).  After about 40 minutes our heroes had managed to remove all the not insubstantial branches from the canal onto the towpath and everyone went on their way again.  As we passed the site, you could see that the tree had fallen from about 15 ft up on the steep embankment, bringing with it a large sandstone boulder which had split open on the towpath.  Very fortunate that no-one was passing at the time.

We had a swift passage through the 5 Tyrley locks thanks to meeting other boats in exactly the right places, before stopping briefly in Market Drayton to have lunch and take on water.

The wind then began to assume gale-like tendencies as we reached Adderley Locks and our passage down them was, shall we say, "interesting".  (Must set aside some time for touching up paintwork).
Spying one Bonjour-sized mooring space at the bottom of the flight, we rapidly claimed it as our own and here we are with the wind whistling around us, awaiting the emergence of a Co-op moussaka from the oven.



14 1/2 miles, 10 locks


Wildlife seen: various ducks, canada geese and farm animals, but highlight of the day was a magnificent sparrowhawk

Kept on our toes

Left Gailey at 8.45 this morning and straight into our first lock of the day, from which a boat had just emerged - nice timing!  Was it a good omen?

But soon it looked like it was going to be "if it can go wrong it will" day.  It seemed that every boat we met was on a blind bend and/or by a bridge; the bridges seemed to be particularly awkward and narrow, progress was interminably slow past a fishing contest, Autherley Junction was like Piccadilly Circus.

The appearance of several youngsters in canoes looked like it was going to be another hassle, but their instructors had them well drilled and as we slid past on tickover, came the call "ready, on the count of three..." and three dozen 10 year olds chorused in unison "Aye, aye, Cap'n" as they saluted us!  What could we do but smile for the rest of the day.

The "Shroppie" seemed positively empty after all this activity, though there were plenty of boats moored up, their occupiers enjoying what is supposed to be the last day of sunshine for a while.

We reached Brewood, our planned stop for the day, at 2.30 - surprisingly, most of the visitor moorings were already taken, but we found a space with no problem and after lunch walked into the village for a quick shop.  We plan to return tomorrow to visit Coopers, an excellent food store, for the makings of our dinner for the next couple of nights.  Tonight, however, we are trying the Bridge Inn, a mere 200 yards along the towpath.

13 miles, 2 locks

Wildlife seen: 2 herons, a duck family in an unusual residence, 1 highland cow

Summer's here! (for a while)

We woke up to the glorious sunshine that was promised by last night's sunset

By now, most people were just relaxing, but some were still at work

Not wanting to leave such a great location in a hurry, we eventually headed off at 10 to 10, planning to reach Gailey or at least Penkridge.  Progress was slow as there were small queues at most of today's locks, and only two of them were in our favour.  We had a half-hour's countryside stop for lunch, took on water at Penkridge, and eventually tied up below Gailey lock at 6.20.

I've had a lot of opportunity today to indulge one of my favourite pastimes - looking into other people's gardens.  It's fascinating how some embrace totally their canalside location, creating delightful little terraces next to the water, while others seem to want to deny its existence and put up high fences or conifers.

Afloat too, you meet all sorts.  Now, who lives in a boat like this? It's over to you...

12 miles, 11 locks


Wildlife seen:  2 herons, 1 ginger cat on a lead, and a man at the Sow Aqueduct told us he thought he'd seen an otter - but I don't suppose that counts...

Downtime

Well, I admit I have been slow in keeping up with our progress (and it has been noticed) so I'm taking the opportunity of a lazy day to pen a catch-up.

Friday 15 June

saw us heading northwards to Hawkesbury Junction (aka Sutton Stop) where we negotiated our only lock of the day - all of 6 inches, so needed to prepare some lunch soon after for sustenance.  Now on the Coventry Canal, the weather turned increasingly showery, and after a lightning stop in Nuneaton for newspaper, we headed towards our intended destination of Cherrytree Farm Bridge (which our regular readers may remember from last October.)

However, seeing moorings empty at the Anchor Inn, Hartshill seemed like fate, so there we stopped, and later had a meal. Absolutely superb. Two happy bunnies.

Have made my first loaf.

19 miles, 1 lock, 1 swing footbridge

Wildlife seen:  1 deer, 1 heron, 1 wolfhound, the size of a small pony (though I don't think it was actually wild)

Saturday 16 June

and it rained, and it rained....

 We went soggily down the 11 Atherstone locks at a more than sedate pace thanks to the hire-boat in front whose crew insisted on tying off all three ropes at every landing.  Luckily they moored halfway down the flight so we passed them and progress was faster thereafter.

At lock 9 the boat waiting to come up seemed familiar - yes, it was Halcyon, our former share-boat!  We exchanged brief pleasantries  with former co-owners Geoff & Ro, though none of us had recognised each other at first thanks to our universal garb of anorak hoods.

After a brief stop at Polesworth to eat some lunch we battled on through the by now howling winds (though the showers were becoming less frequent) to Fazeley Junction, where we replenished the water tank.

Having rejected (somewhat unjustly) all the moorings in Fazeley as "too urban", we continued to Hopwas, where we settled down to listen to the rain and the wind, and watch highlights of Trooping the Colour (for tonight we have a TV signal for the first time!).  We had a beef casserole with the boat-made bread, and it was good.

Went to bed to the sound of distant dance music, which was still going at 3 am.  Deja-vu(entendu?) Martin?!

16 miles, 13 locks

Wildlife seen:  1 heron, 1 kingfisher (yay!!)


Sunday 17 June

Being Sunday, we made a late and leisurely start.  More sunshine and fewer showers today.  We pootled along, meeting surprisingly few boats for a not-bad Sundaay, until we reached Fradley junction where boats and gongoozlers were out in force.

Up the locks following a Scots couple aboard an Anglo-Welsh hireboat.  The paddles were easy enough but the gates were murder - Mrs Scot and I could not shift them together and needed to call for assistance from passers-by.


At Wood End lock a small black creature shot out from a bush and headed for the water - looked like a mongoose, could have been a polecat or ferret, or perhaps a mink?

Made a mixed-grain loaf today which we ate with Cumbrian Lamb Hotpot.  The breadmaker is a Morphy Richards Daily Loaf - makes a teeny loaf which is just right for two of us.

Moored at a pleasant countryside location.  Though within sight of Rugeley Power Station and as ever not far from a railway line, it was nevertheless peaceful and we even got a bit of a sunset.

17 miles, 3 locks, 1 swing bridge


Wildlife seen: 1 heron, 1 polecat/ferret/mink (or possibly a mongoose)


Monday 18 June

Another late start as today, in contrast to the previous three 8+ hour days, was scheduled to be "leisurely".

Just over an hour's cruising saw us arrive at Great Haywood, with the sun breaking through and glimpses of Shugborough Hall

Gave Shugborough a miss as we visited last time we were here - but it's very much to be recommended.   After a quick trip to the local Spar and a slower trip to the superb Canalside Farm Shop, we returned to Bonjour for lunch, before heading to the junction and turning onto the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal - and so we joined the Four Counties Ring!

A brief stop at the Anglo-Welsh boatyard for the other necessities of life aboard - diesel & pumpout - delivered, we must record, with exceptional efficiency and courtesy.  Then we progressed the short distance to Tixall Wide.  The canal here widens to lake-like proportions - allegedly to placate the owner of the long-since demolished Tixall Hall (where Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned for a fortnight in 1586).  Only the gatehouse now remains, but it is quite an impressive one, and this is our view for the rest of the day

To celebrate the final arrival of summer (apparently it will be 3 days this time) we have had our first barbecue.

3 1/2 miles, 2 locks


Wildlife seen: ducks (several), swans (several), cows, pigs, sheep....bit disappointing, this

On our travels again!

Hello and a belated Merry Christmas to all our readers.

Well, we are now 2 days into our Epic Voyage of 2012, which will see us cruising via the N Oxford, Coventry and Trent & Mersey Canals to join the Four Counties Ring at Great Haywood Junction.  We will then circumnavigate the ring in a clockwise direction, with a possible detour up the Caldon Canal at about 10 past 3, before returning to base via the same route.


We left Calcutt at 9 am on Thursday, and after a bit of a delay while we waited for two boats to come down the locks and turn into the narrow marina entrance breasted up (total respect for the helmsman - never touched the sides once), we were on our way in sunshine and not too much wind.

However, as we headed towards Braunston, we seemed to be going more and more slowly as more and more boats appeared ahead of us.  We were eventually informed by someone coming the other way that the delay was being caused by 5 hire boats full of Danes who were travelling in a very slow convoy.

Eventually we reached Braunston and managed to pass two of the Danish boats which had stopped for water (but no sign of the other three); thereafter progress was more normal and we descended Hillmorton locks in no time, assisted by two helpful volunteer lockies who were ensuring smooth and efficient passage for all.

At this point I mention that in addition to our usual paraphernalia we are for the first time carrying 4 tomato plants in a grow-bag, some herb seedlings and a breadmaker, so we shall not go hungry.  Nevertheless, a space on the visitor moorings at Rugby meant that I couldn't resist the opportunity of a visit to Tesco (not a phrase you'll hear me utter at home), mainly because I wanted a watering can for the tomatoes.

 And I found one:

Not roses & castles but worms & frogs, but otherwise suitably boaty, I thought! (ie compact and colourful)

As we returned to the boat, having unaccountably managed to buy two bags' worth of stuff besides the watering can, we found all five boatsful of Danes had arrived on the opposite bank and were assembled in a large crowd singing "Happy Birthday" to someone.

We therefore headed off to find a quieter mooring spot, which we did about an hour later, just before the heavens opened.

17 miles, 6 locks, 1 tunnel


Wildlife seen: 0 kingfishers, 0 herons, 50+ Danish teenagers, 1 tortoise (living quite happliy on the roof of a passing boat)