Home again

Wednesday 26 October

No great rush to leave today as we were only 3 hours away from Calcutt.  Thank goodness the rain had stopped and it was shaping up to be a lovely autumn day.

The normal "traffic jam" at Braunston Junction was surprisingly absent, especially so as it was half-term and the hire boats were out in force.

About a mile from the junction we passed "Umbriel", an old wooden hulled working boat, sadly sunk for a couple of years or so.  Several attempts have been made to raise her intact but to no avail.  Apparently no-one has the cash to restore her and it seems she will eventually be broken up and taken away by BW.  Shame.

We have travelled this section of canal many times now - it is intriguingly the Oxford Canal and the Grand Union at the same time! - but the views never cease to delight and there are plenty of good mooring spots.

All too soon we were back at Calcutt and, entering the top lock, we were soon joined by another boat crewed by a trio of, shall we say, somewhat more senior than us people.  They were obviously thoroughly enjoying their boating and we reflected that on that basis we can look forward to a good 10-15 years more of "bons jours".  Bring it on!

We wanted fuel and a pump-out, they wanted fuel, and there was already a boat on the wharf getting the full works, including coal and gas.  Potentially a right muddle, but in a series of manoeuvres akin to formation dancing, everyone sorted themselves out.  Then it was through the last two locks, into the marina, and of course the wind got up to greet us. Apparently "Calcutt" comes from an Anglo-Saxon word meaning "windy place".

Secured on the pontoon, landline attached, we had a quick lunch and then it was on to the depressing bit.  Quite how it took more than 2 hours to pack our stuff into the car and do a quick clean, I don't know, but at 4.30 we were on the road, mission completed.

Total: 134 miles, 94 locks (51 wide, 43 narrow), approx 75 hours cruising

And so we say au revoir.  Thank you for reading, and a special thank you to Eileen for looking after cat and home.

Sunny intervals, with some showers

Tuesday 25 October

An early start today, as we wanted to get to Braunston before the moorings filled up, though not before Brian had fired off another email to the Parish Clerk (sorry John!)  It's a tough life at the heart of local politics.

With very little wind and the glimmerings of some sunshine, we soon found ourselves at Newbold Tunnel with its atmospheric lighting (and it's not just for Hallowe'en!)

Straight after we made a lightning stop near the refuse disposal point so I could offload our rubbish - one of the few where there are proper recycling facilities.

On then to Rugby Visitor Moorings where we made a quick trip to Tesco for essentials: milk, decent gin - and socks.  (A little packing faux pas there, Brian)

The sun was high and the air quite balmy when we reached Hillmorton locks.  These are in pairs and normally traffic moves quite quickly as you tend to get one side going up and the other down.  But due to the water shortage (I can't believe I'm writing this with all the reports of flooding) and a damaged beam, one lock in each pair was out of action.  Still, we were through fairly quickly and stopped at the top of the locks for some lunch.

Our departure was delayed by a short sharp shower, but it was a mere dribble compared to what was to come.  Within an hour the skies had darkened, thunder was rumbling and we were literally deluged.  Progress slowed to snail's pace as we struggled to see where we were going.  At one point we decided to pull in and moor up, but the towpath was narrow, muddy and slippery and the skull hanging in the window of an adjacent boat made us slightly nervous.  So we pressed on, but by this time 3 boats had passed us and instinct told us they would take the last 3 mooring spaces in Braunston. 


So we have stopped about a mile short of the village and it's home cooking again tonight.

Wind and wuthering

Monday 24 October

Well, we were promised wind and we got it in spades (and gusts, flurries, near hurricanes and whatever else it comes in).  Today has definitely come under the definition of "hard work". 

However, we are now relaxing our stiffened right arms (from gripping the tiller) at a pleasantly quiet mooring near Easenhall Lane Bridge No 34 on the Northern Oxford Canal (a road bridge with easy access to the village of Brinklow - tick), in the company of 5 other boats (tick).


We did our first lock in 5 days (the stop-lock at Hawkesbury Junction - rise of 6 inches!

and passed under our very own bridge (Johnson's Bridge - No 27)

but we have managed to avoid hearing anything about Spooks.

Off to watch the repeat now.  Nighty-night!

Sunday - A Postscript

Did we get to watch Spooks? NO!


At about 9.40 after some disturbance outside I had occasion to make my first ever 999 call, thanks to a potentially violent situation involving the occupants of the boat behind.

In the event, it seemed there was no threat to us or anyone else but rather sadly the situation involved a very disturbed young woman.  (Who, we have now found out, is being given some proper help)

We had given the Police our exact position - near Goodacres Bridge - no 13 on the Ashby Canal, but said that the nearest road acess would be at the Lime Kilns pub on the A5 at Hinckley - Bridge 15 - about 2/3 mile away.  It actually took them around 50 minutes to arrive (although that did include a 15 minute walk down the towpath in the dark), but we learned that this was only by chance because a car with 2 female officers had actually been despatched to Ashby-de-la-Zouch, ie. completely the wrong direction, but an alert traffic cop on the M6, listening in, had realised this and pointed them the right way.  Eventually, all three arrived and sorted out the situation.

So, everything settled.  Did we sleep well? - no.  We've moored overnight in the centre of Manchester, Birmingham and other urban areas and always felt safe, but out in the countryside we suddenly felt quite vulnerable.  What if we'd needed an ambulance? Lesson learnt - in the countryside, moor near to a road bridge. 

I'm also planning on writing to the Police in Leicestershire & Warwickshire to suggest that their emergency call staff have access to a Nicholsons or other canal maps.

Are you still with us?

So here we are, sitting on the boat with a howling gale raging outside, thinking: where did the last 4 days go?

Don't know how it happened, but boating sort of got in the way of blogging.  However, here are the edited highlights...

Thursday

Headed to Nuneaton for lunch and to do some shopping.  Bought some gin in Lidl (of which more later).  Saw a fish & chip shop so thought we'd indulge.  Resisted the advertised "Easter Special" not because it's October but because it comprised a deep-fried Creme Egg.

On to the Ashby Canal and the land that time forgot (or that's what it feels like anyway).  Moored about a mile south of Hinckley.  Cannot get BBC1 or 2 but every other channel is fine.

Friday

Onwards to Shackerstone, pausing at Hinckley to take on water and at Sutton Cheney Wharf where we enjoyed rather good bacon, brie & cranberry paninis for lunch in the cafe.  The canal is exceptionally attractive, quite twisty so plenty to think about even though there are no locks to do.  Very quiet though, we only met one other boat in 3 hours after lunch.

After Market Bosworth the scenery was less interesting and the weather dull and cold, so we were quite glad to reach Shackerstone where we were due to meet our friend Ann for a meal at the Rising Sun.  Meal excellent, good time had by all.  Arranged to catch up again for Sunday lunch at Stoke Golding on the way back.

Saturday

Although our original intention was to get to the Ashby Canal terminus at Snarestone, we realised that we would need 2 solid days' boating to make it back to Stoke Golding for Sunday morning, so decided to give ourselves some down-time by turning round just beyond Shackerstone and heading back to Market Bosworth.

A brisk 1-mile walk took us into the town centre, which is delightful.  We picked up essential supplies and a lottery ticket and returned to the boat.  Great to be walking for a change.  I really like Market Bosworth - one of those places you feel "I could live here".

After watering up again we headed off to... well basically however far we could get by 4 o'clock.  It was warm and sunny but the wind was strong and there were times when we seemed to be going nowhere even at full throttle.

Where we got to was - Stoke Golding!  The visitor moorings there, which are on the non-towpath side, were full, but we moored on the towpath nearly opposite.  A surprisingly warm night.

Sunday

By 10 am two boats had moved off the visitor moorings so we drifted across and re-moored there. The moorings are adjacent to the road and there is a convenient lay-by so there was a steady stream of dog-walkers and duck-feeders arriving and departing.  I threw in my two-penn'orth of stale bread and decided that these must be the fattest ducks on the Ashby.

Ann arrived at 11 and we had coffee before walking up the hill to the White Swan.  A lovely, old-fashioned "local" with a friendly welcome and a great Sunday roast.

We said our goodbyes to Ann and set off at 2.30 in an even stronger wind than yesterday.  Progress was slowed even further when just before Hinckley we caught up with a boat being driven by a seemingly clueless individual, towing another boat helmed by his even more clueless girlfriend (we assume).  We were stuck behind them for nearly an hour, and at times even tickover wasn't slow enough.  Eventually, they pulled in to let us past at one of the narrowest parts of the canal.

So here we are, back in the same spot we moored on Thursday.  Brian had some Parish Council stuff to do  for which we felt the need of a stiff G & T.  So out came the Lidl stuff.  Our opinion - expressed simultaneously - it's gin, but not as we know it.

Anxious about not receiving BBC1 as we simply must see the last episode of Spooks live.  Solved by moving the aerial 12 inches.  *Ain't technology wonderful!

(Sorry, no photos - connection too slow to upload them.  See above*)

Locks and Logs

Wednesday 19 October

Off at 9.10 in sunshine and much less wind than before.  Today was the day for Atherstone Locks, 11 of them, which are currently restricted in operation to between 9 am & 4 pm in order to save water.  Luckily we either found locks in our favour or met a boat coming the other way all the way up the flight, so can say hand on heart that we used the absolute minimum!  Best of all, they are the last locks we will encounter until next Tuesday.

We stopped for lunch halfway, then moored again beyond the top lock, to investigate the advertised Post Office & Stores "only 1 minute from the bridge".  For once, the sign was right! Furthermore, the Coleshill Road Post Office was a real gem: well-stocked, friendly - and they sold logs!  Carrying them back to the boat Brian was very grateful for that "only 1 minute".

It was now 3.30 and we decided to go no more than hour before we stopped for the night.  We are moored therefore at Cherrytree Farm Bridge in the middle of very pleasant countryside (apart from the West Coast main line which, like the poor, is always with us).  Time to get the stove going! First, the chimney -

The fire was carefully laid and lit, the smoke alarm was triggered three times, but we do not have the warm glow we hoped for. Apparently, they are the wrong sort of logs.  Heigh ho.

Chilly and Chilli

Tuesday 18 October

We were feeling quite lazy this morning so didn't get away until gone 10.  Only 5 locks to do today so no need to hurry.  We were soon through the last 3 of the Curdworth locks, stopping for water before the last one.

Bright and sunny weather, but still that vicious wind to contend with, so layers of fleece are the order of the day.  Some interesting scenery, including this wonderfully Gothic footbridge near Drayton.

We were soon at Fazeley Junction, where Brian executed a perfect right turn onto the Coventry Canal without aid of bowthruster or even warning squeaks from me!  We moored just beyond the junction and set off in search of supplies, most of which we found at a handy Tesco Express.  However, Brian is determined to get our wood-burner going for the first time, and logs are proving elusive.

Carried on up Glascote Locks where there was quite a traffic jam.  Another stop was had at Alvecote, where we got a pump-out and a fill up of diesel from a dead ringer for Paul Merton.  He did not sell logs, though.

We intended mooring at Polesworth, but all the visitor moorings on the western side of the village, with a pleasant outlook, were taken.  The visitor moorings on the other side of town were empty but for one boat, but we were not taken with the setting and pressed on another few hundred yards to a more countryfied stretch.

Brian cooked chilli and we have now finished our wine-box.

I don't like Mondays

Monday 17 October

Nah, Downton Abbey won hands down!

After an amazingly quiet night at Star City, we set off at 8.40 and were soon at Spaghetti Junction.  The turn onto the Birmingham & Fazeley Canal is tight and we were somewhat amused by the signs  opposite:  "Caution:  Please do not bump our wall"  We didn't (thank you, bowthruster!), but the state of the wall suggested it was a difficult instruction for many to obey.

On we wound through the suburbs of Birmingham, past Fort Dunlop and Castle Bromwich, where over 11,000 of Brian's beloved Spitfires were built.  We found more and more rubbish in the cut, including quite large planks of wood and pallets, not to mention the usual bottles, cans & fast food containers.  Progress was slow and the prop got fouled several times.  By comparison, the stretches of canal near the centre of Birmingham had been spotless.

At Minworth locks the rain started which added to the general air of depression about today's journey.  It was still scything down when we moored up for lunch at the first spot that seemed reasonable, just above Curdworth locks.  We tucked into bacon sandwiches and the sun came out, making the world seem a better place, so we made it a longer lunch than usual.  But as soon as we decided to head off again, the rain reappeared, together with a vicious wind.

All but two of nine locks were against us and arriving at our planned stop - the Dog & Doublet at Bodymoor Heath - was a blessed relief, as was the discovery that it served food all day.  After a quick shower and change we were in the bar at 6, enjoying home made steak pie at 6.30, and back on board by 7.

The only question now is - which sound will keep us awake tonight? - the wind or the M42?

The forecast is better tomorrow.

Per ardua ad astra

Sunday 16 October

Everyone has been telling us this will be the last good day, weather-wise, and as we set off from C de B, we anxiously viewed the clouds building up overhead.  The overall gloom was not helped by travelling though miles of overhanging trees, the debris from which, combined with quite shallow water, made for slow progress.

Eventually the trees ended, the sky brightened, and the sylvan debris gave way to plastic bottles, cans, carrier bags and at one point, a television (the cathode ray tube is so last season). Suburban housing gave way to industry and dereliction, punctuated by the occasional surprise - how do you fancy the Crystal Plaza Wedding Hall for your ceremony?

We reached the top of Camp Hill locks and took on water before the descent.  My anticipated pleasure at doing narrow locks again evaporated fairly quickly when I found it impossible to open the top gate of Lock 1.  Brian tied the boat up and came to help but it was a real struggle even with two of us.  I was not now looking forward to locks 2 to 6, but fortunately (and amazingly, as we hadn't seen another boat for 3 hours) help arrived in the form of a hire boat behind us, this time with 4 strapping Yorkshiremen aboard.  They were doing the Warwickshire Ring in a week so were keen not to be held up, and together we got through Camp Hill and the 5 Garrison locks fairly rapidly.


Not having had any lunch, we stopped just after 3.15 at the visitor moorings thoughtfully provided at the exotically named Star City (because every boater needs to visit a casino, multiplex cinema, bowling alley, "mini snow slope" and interactive Chamber of Horrors once in a while). But the moorings are good, safe (on the non-towpath side and separated from the complex by a security fence & gate - BW key operated) and, considering the proximity of the M6, reasonably quiet.

So here we are for the night.  Will we be tempted ?

Knowle Locks - no! no!! yes!!!

Saturday 15 October

We were in no hurry to leave our peaceful mooring but the sunshine made a move irresistible in the end, so we pootled off through increasingly gorgeous scenery as far as Lapworth, where I bought some essentials and Brian fixed a leaky radiator.

After coffee and a snack, we continued to our only locks of the day - at Knowle. Only 5 of them - after Hatton, a piece of cake.  After 4 hours and only one boat passed, we were not surprised that we would apparently be doing the flight on our own.  Neither were we surprised to find the first lock against us - such is life.  The shock came as I started to empty the lock - the paddle almost impossible to wind, and it didn't seem to be emptying.  Rather too late I noticed a paddle at the top left open. Putting that right, we got the first lock done, eventually.  The second was even harder work, the wind was blowing Bonjour all around the pound, and as Brian finally got her into the lock, I was beginning to despair of actually reaching the top.  Much muttering of "should have gone up the Lapworth flight" ensued.

Luckily a hire boat was catching up with us so we waited in the 3rd lock - and waited (the helmsman was having even more trouble with the wind than Brian had) but thereafter life became a little easier as the boat contained three strapping Aussies who did the really hard work while I just wound one paddle per lock to set them ahead.

We watered up at the top of the locks and then carried on to the wonderfully-named Catherine de Barnes.  However it seems that no such lady existed and the village was named after a 12th century Lord "Ketelberne" (perhaps the Brummie accent explains the transition? - as a southerner I wouldn't know).  Even more confusingly, the village notice board referred to it as "Catney".

Nice moorings, handy village shop and pub (excellent meals, after a long wait - the Boat Inn is obviously highly popular), shame it's under the flight-path from BHX.  But we slept well anyway.

Stairway to Heaven

Friday 14 October

Well, it had to be done, but what a day to do it! Blue skies, little high clouds, glorious sunshine.  Just 21 locks to do...

How does that song go? "Alone again, naturally"  We waited, but no-one came to share the pain (or indeed the pleasure), so off we set up the Hatton flight (known as the "Stairway to Heaven") at 9.40, promising ourselves lunch at the cafe near the top lock.

Four hours later - well, no more bingo wings for me!  And fellow walking ladies, please note I exceeded the 2 mile quota by all of ..ooh..50 yards?  (Thinks: uh, was that all?)

We had taken on more water and moored up ready to go for our lunch, when who should appear but Chris, Lexie & Molly-the-dog.  Talk about turning up when the work's done - but we were very pleased to see them.  The cafe does an all-day breakfast until 3.00 pm(!), plus other delights, which pleased us,  and sells Bonios at 20p each, which pleased Molly. Then Pam & Mike, Lexie's mum & dad, joined us, and a jolly time was had by all.

We decided to move on out into the country and after negotiating a very drippy Shrewley tunnel (no showers needed now) found an idyllic spot "somewhere near Rowington" (I think).  We can see the Cock Horse Inn down in the valley, but despite the "Save our Pub" banner we have no energy to help and are enjoying our own G & Ts and a fabulous sunset.  Good days indeed.

Twelve locks and a Tesco

Thursday 13 October

Today dawned pleasingly bright, and Brian set off in search of a paper while I did the washing up.  However he found none that pleased him, so off we set at 9.25. We met a fair few boats coming the other way, but none seemed to be travelling in our direction, so all locks were done solo.

At  the Fosse Locks we took on water and noticed the top of one tap was missing.  At the next lock were what I assumed to be some BW men and told them about the tap.  "That's not us" they said,  "but thank you for letting us know".  I wonder if anything will happen...

At Warwick I made what must have been my quickest ever visit to Tescos - 5 minutes there, 5 minutes back, 10 minutes shopping - while Brian waited with the engine running.  Another half hour through the backstreets of Warwick and our last 2 locks of the day, and we were moored up near the Cape of Good Hope by 5.15.

We made our way to the Cape for a meal (and back again, in the dark!) across the lock gates.  Amazed that 'elf 'n' safety' has not picked up on this yet. The meal was excellent and qualifies for best value so far - a mediterranean vegetable risotto with salad & chips (honest, I did not ask for the chips, but they were divine!) for £7.10 and liver & onions with mash & 2 veg for a fiver!

An early night ( to prepare us for Hatton tomorrow), but not before Brian had investigated strange noises from outside the boat. However, instead of the boathook thief he suspected, he found - a rat, scuttling along the gunwales.  Well, they say you're never more than a metre from one.

The Warwickshire Ring - and more!

Wednesday 12 October

Having planned to leave the marina at around 1pm, we left the pontoon (in a high wind as usual!) at 1.30. This is extremely good for us, almost counting as "on time".

With high clouds and a fair bit of sun, it looked like we would get a pleasant journey to our first night's stop at Long Itchington. As we started down Stockton Locks it seemed as if we would be on our own for the whole flight, but we were soon joined by a family of 4 on a Kate Boats hireboat, so made it down the eight locks in a creditable 75 mins, and after the two further locks we finally moored beyond Cuttle Bridge at around 4.

Having eaten at the Two Boats twice already this year, we really did mean to go to the Cuttle Inn this time, but the lure of the Boats' steak was too strong and 2 perfectly cooked sirloins, a pint & a half of Guinness & a large merlot later, we strolled back to Bonjour feeling our trip had started rather well.

A trip to Braunston: 4 July 2011

The idea was good - cruise to Braunston, have lunch, turn round, cruise back, sleep over in the Marina, home next morning.  The cat wouldn't even miss us!

Except said cat spent Sunday night on the tiles and failed to turn up for his breakfast.  With him finally ambling in around 11 am, a quick dash over to Calcutt saw us buying our lunch in Southam Tesco and eating it once through Napton junction.

After following an extremely sloooow hireboat, we arrived in Braunston around 4.30 by which time all moorings were full, so no point stopping.  We winded at the marina, filled up with water (where Brian spotted an otter) and headed off home again.

About half an hour out of Braunston we encountered another hire boat 45 degrees across the cut and apparently aground alongside some moored boats (Not knocking hire boaters by the way - we've all been there!)  Waiting for things to sort themselves out, the chap from the boat moored just behind shouted "I think your boat's mooring itself" and indeed we were moving gracefully towards the towpath precisely between his boat and the one in front.

This seemed like fate so there we stayed!  A great mooring spot, quiet and peaceful.  The delicious smell of barbecue assailed us from both directions - unfortunately we only had Tesco lasagne, but the wine improved things no end.



We slept like logs, woken only by a boat passing at 6 in the morning, set off at 8.30 and were back at Calcutt by 11.

Maiden Voyage: 6 - 16 June 2011

We planned to take Bonjour from the builder's at Dunhampstead on the Worcester & Birmingham Canal to our mooring at Calcutt Marina on the Grand Union by way of Birmingham and the Coventry and Oxford Canals, taking a detour up the Ashby on our way.

However, plans are made to be broken, and we ended up re-emerging from Birmingham to go down the Stratford Canal and thence onto the Grand Union at Kingswood Junction.

Thereafter we experienced the delights of the Hatton and Stockton flights and arrived tired but happy at Calcutt on 16 June.